Gone Fishin' in New Orleans

Think twice before you take a bite into a catfish po’ boy or dig into a crawfish boil. Our team has feasted on fried crab-cakes, fresh shucked oysters, and spicy shrimp these two weeks. But amidst the abundance of seafood, many people do not know about the commercial fishermen’s struggle after Hurricane Katrina.

My job at Seedco Financial is to explore the fisheries industry in context of the rebuilding process in Louisiana. I took a crash course in “trawlin'” for shrimp and laying oyster beds. Fishing is an industry that often goes under the radar – especially in the context of Hurricane Katrina and the reconstruction efforts.

Louisiana is the largest producer of shrimp, oysters, and crawfish in the United States (supplying 20% of these particular seafood), and this industry also took the hardest hit after the storm. I learned that fishermen hang their livelihood on their boats. After the storm, they lost everything. They have no means to make a living when their boat is destroyed by winds and floodwaters. Most fishermen are self-employed and do not have the capital to fix their boats or qualify for loans to rebuild. They often have very little education, and I’ve even met some older fishermen who are illiterate. It is very hard for them to get back into the waters, but at the same time, they often only know how to make a living by fishing.

I’ve been working with Seedco and the state of Louisiana on their loan/ grant program for commercial fisherman who suffered loss from Katrina. We’re providing them with low interest loans and grants to help them get back onto their feet and start fishing again. Every afternoon, I head out to Plaquemines Parish (a county outside of New Orleans) to staff Seedco’s new Fisheries Assistance Center. A short twenty minute drive takes you out to the rural Southern countryside. Fishermen come from their boats to get information and business assistance from the Center.

Today, I just came back from a town hall meeting at a local high school for fishermen. The State and the Department of Wildlife and Fisheries are hosting workshops and meetings for fishermen to learn about financial assistance and grant programs. I’ve never been in a room with so many fishermen my whole life. It’s an interesting experience to hang out and talk to hard-working, down to earth men and women who spend days or weeks out at sea. They play a vital role in Louisiana’s economy, suffered from the storm, and usually are unnoticed by the media.

As a law student from urban Los Angeles, I’ve had next to no experience with fisheries until these two weeks in New Orleans. It’s great to hang out in the rural out-skirts of New Orleans and talk to fishermen. It opened my eyes to a different industry that most law students would never be able to explore. It’s saddening to hear about the losses fishermen incurred from the storm, but at the same time, it’s fascinating to learn about their resilience and determination to get back onto the waters.

Down on the Bayou

I spent my Saturday down on St. John's Bayou in MidCity New Orleans tabling a booth with the Parent Organizing Network at the Bayou Boogaloo Festival. Sireen and I worked alongside two amazing, dedicated women, program director Aesha Rasheed and Shana Turner, providing information about New Orleans public schools to parents and other festival attendees. We fielded questions and distributed the Parents' Guide, a resource for parents that Sireen and I have spent a good chunk of our workdays revising and updating. The guide provides essential information about the ever changing, nuanced landscape of the city’s public education system. Along with the closure and relocation of many schools following the storm, the state takeover of the district and the start-up of numerous charter schools have created a situation that parents and district officials alike have difficulty fully keeping tabs on. Along with organizing and empowering parents to have more of a voice, the Parent Organizing Network works to provide much needed transparency about the application process and the choices parents have about where to send their child for school.

It was an especially hot afternoon on the Bayou, but festival attendees beat the heat by enjoying snowballs, cold lemonade, and New Orleans iced tea. The food was mouth watering (I enjoyed a tasty 12 hour roast beef Po'boy with worcestershire sauce and grilled red onions) and the crafts were fun to browse, but the music was definitely the highlight. On the lineup card were New Orleans legends Rebirth, The Soul Rebels, and Walter the Wolfman Washington with Joey Crown. Needless to say, listening to soul stirring live music and eating distinctive New Orleans cuisine have truly defined my experience in this amazing city.

On Sunday we were back at the Bayou enjoying a truly unique (and rare!) New Orleans experience. It was Super Sunday and the Mardi Gras Indians were out to celebrate a century-old tradition. Mardi Gras Indians are mostly African-American Carnival revelers who dress up for Mardi Gras and Super Sunday in colorful, ornate suits inspired by Native American ceremonial apparel. The tradition was said to have originated from an affinity between Africans and Indians as fellow outcasts of society, as well as blacks circumventing some of the worst racial segregation laws by representing themselves as Indians. Collectively, the Mardi Gras Indians' organizations are called "tribes," ranging from a half dozen to several dozen members. On "Super Sunday," usually held the Sunday closest to Saint Joseph's Day, the Mardi Gras Indians (including children and men and women of all ages) parade through various neighborhoods dancing and playing drums and brass instruments. It was quite a sight and we all felt privileged to be a part of the experience!

A Tail of Two Cities

Being raised in New Orleans, I believe I had slightly different experience than most. In one respect, it was good reuniting with its diverse population, its savory food, and the combination of brass instruments the produces such a unique sound. On the other hand, It was difficult being reminded of just how much work still needs to be done; how many lives still have yet to be returned to something remotely considered normal. Sure, everyone hopes New Orleans is reborn with the same uniqueness that attracted so many to come visit and with the same culture that attracted so many to call it home, but hope is the easy part. How are we supposed to rebuild when so many still don't have jobs? How are we supposed to move on when so much still reminds us of the past?
The fact of the matter is that New Orleans was plagued with problems long before Katrina ever reached its shores. A poor public school system combined with corrupt city officials ensured that no middle class was ever established. This led to a large part of the city's population living their lives lost in a sea of ignorance. This is the same group of people that we expect to be able to rebuild their lives with little or no help from the government. This is the same group that we blame for not having the proper insurance; for not gutting and rebuilding their homes. Is it right then for us to bulldoze the houses that people cant afford to rebuild? Is it right for us to kick people of out their FEMA trailers? The answer to both of these questions is almost certainly no. But how then is the city supposed to progress and put this tragedy behind them? There in lies the problem. Although they both occupy the same physical space, there's two different cities in New Orleans right now. One city who will do whatever it takes to rebuild the city bigger and better than ever before. And another city fighting to keep the little that the most devastating nature disaster in history of the United States has left them.

Seeds of Human Resilence

Today I complete my first volunteer week with Mary Queen of Vietnam, Community Development Corporation (MQVN CDC). I smile while reflecting back on my oh-so-many adventures, mini epiphanies and blossoming relationships that have brightened my stay here in New Orleans.

On one of my first days of work, Tuan Nguyen, the Director of Development for MQVN CDC gave me an extensive tour of East New Orleans, particularly the Versailles Community. He highlighted the devastated areas and the following redevelopment efforts stemmed by community organizing. After Hurricane Katrina, many communities were devastated and the human will to fight became scarce. The Versailles community, which is home to predominantly Vietnamese families, is not unique in this regards. Nearly thirteen miles from downtown New Orleans, the Versailles community stands in the wreckage of thousands of grungy abandoned houses that were once home to the vibrant and booming New Orleans East. Many businesses shut down with no plans to return, and thousands of residents evacuated leaving behind generations of memories. Strangely, in the midst of this desolate backdrop, the Versailles community has sort of emerged like a baby butterfly finding her way back home. After several years of hard work and community commitment, over 1,000 people have returned to Versailles.

I saw the strength of the city as I passed by hundreds of restored homes, and businesses, including restaurants, grocery stores and medical clinics. I hear the tales of children back in public schools, private schools and even newly constructed Charter schools which were recreated to fulfill the developmental needs of the struggling youth. However, out of all the vast development projects I witnessed, the most touching scene for me was a beautifully landscaped patch of land, which was dressed by bursting colorful flowers and lush vibrant greenery. What makes this small plot of land even more striking was the fact that it was surrounded by other empty and desolate nuetral grounds of weed and dirt. This particular vivacious nuetral ground was a community project organized and funded purely by community member, some of which lost everything, but hope. This plot of land represents the hope that the entire community holds onto, in light of the hardships that they were handed. The dirt and weeds represent struggle, in which only community commitment and self-sacrifice can slowly overcome.

Although Versailles is hardly an ideal development, the vast amounts of improvements that have been accomplished in such a short amount of time, despite lacking resources, have become the inspirational force behind the redevelopment of many other devastated communities in New Orleans. The community was certain that if they rapidly rebuilt and occupied their homes, the city government would have to provide services. Perhaps the most important key to their success is that the community refused to place its recovery into the hands of the government. My exploration of this small, yet inspiring community has helped me realize that underneath the ashes of despair, there will always lay the seeds of human resilience: courage, self-sacrifice and love.

New Orleans Through the Restaurant Business

Yesterday, I accompanied Robin Barnes, Seedco Director, to visit various restaurant owners in New Orleans to explore issues surrounding rebuilding the service industry – including issues regarding H2B visa workers and the spirit of the New Orleans people.

Palace Café – Dickie Brennan

Our first stop was with Dickie Brennan and his management staff. Mr. Brennan owns several large and established restaurants in New Orleans, and he has recently begun hiring staff on H2B visas. After the storm, 53 out of his 55 management staff chose to come back and rebuild the restaurants. However, he found the process to be very difficult because he did not have enough employees to staff all his restaurants (especially in the front of the house). He realized that the restaurant business is seasonal, with the high season being between September to June and the low season during the summer. Mr. Brennan realized that the length of the visa perfectly fits his restaurant business and decided to participate in the program. They hired 15 people the first year, 22 two the second year, and 50 this year. They project to hire about 60 workers this year. They have hosted workers from Croatia, South America, and the Philippines.

Mr. Brennan and his company are known for treating those on H2B visas especially well. They welcome them to the city by helping them find housing, giving care/ welcome packages, and providing meals. They are pleased with the “ripple effect” of the program because the American staff members are learning so much from the foreign workers. According to a staff survey, they found out that 99.9% of the workers want to return and continue to work for Mr. Brennan’s restaurants.

However, the visa program is not without flaws. Currently, there are concerns that the government will be cutting back on H2B visas. There is also concern about balancing issuing H2B visas and hiring domestic workers. New Orleans government leaders want to ensure that locals have jobs, but at the same time if there are not enough individuals to meet the demand, they also want to invite foreign workers to fill in the vacant jobs.

Loretta’s Pralines

Loretta has been making pralines for 28 years, and she got her recipe from her mother. She initially took sold the candy at LSU and then later at the Jazz Festival. She was located at her “warehouse store” for 15 years, and she has not been able to sell their pralines in the French Quarter since the storm. She initially had 15 employees before the storm, but now she only has 3 employees. Many employees decided not to come back.

After the storm, people were looking for places to eat since no restaurants were open. People were asking her about opening for breakfast and lunch, and she begun providing those meals. She learned to adjust and change according to the needs of the time. Later, the demand of the restaurant decreased and she decided to only host lunch on Fridays.

Dukey Chase

Our last stop was at Dukey Chase – a famed New Orleans African American eatery. It’s a place where you would take your date. I got to try my first gumbo made by Mrs. Chase. The restaurant was beautiful and decorated with African American artwork. It’s definitely one of those community places where you could feel the New Orleans spirit.

Ken's Pharmacy

Today, community outreach was my main priority. I visited some of the local businesses in the Versailles community, introducing myself and letting them know I was at their service. During my quest, I stumbled upon a small pharmacy simply named Ken's Pharmacy, named after the owner/manager/employee (a one man show). The building is encompassed by a rusted iron fence, designed to resemble French design, while chipped crackling paint dress the faded exterior walls. At first glance it looks cold, desolate and barely worth much thought. However, as I walked into the tiny store, I quickly felt hypnotized by the vibrancy beaming within. There were carefully displayed products dangling from every corner, from bright green cough syrup, to glistening silver hand watches. There were people swaying in and out, laughing and pointing at the colorful toys quaintly stacked on the shelves.

The main reason for my site visit was to try and explain to Ken a leasing contract, in which MQVN CDC, had drafted for him and Tulane University’s Medical Center. Apparently, Ken was leasing some of his property to them, with the requirement that they build a medical clinic which would accommodate poor people in the community, based on a sliding scale. Ken explained that there was only one doctor in the entire area, and he felt horrible when people were turned away due to their lack of insurance.

While evaluating Ken’s leasing contract, I quickly realized that he was not going to make any profit on his leasing agreement, just enough to cover the insurance expenses for the property. Curiously, I asked Ken why he was not leasing his property for more, considering that it was worth a lot more and Tulane University could surely afford a higher lease. Ken just humbly replied, “I am doing it for my community.” Being only familiar to the usual profit hungry practices from most business owners, his answer really blew me away.

While talking to Ken, many people entered his store and greeted him as if they had been coming there for years. Most people did not buy anything; however, Ken did not seem to mind. He just genuinely seemed to enjoy the interaction with his fellow community members. At one point, a small boy, no older than 10 years old, came into the store. He was extremely shy, and was looking at his feet the entire way to Ken's counter. The boy was holding a small plastic bag and I was extremely curious to see what he could possibly need. As soon as he reached Ken, his little head perked up, as he unveiled a small trophy with the inscription 4.0. He smiled and quietly whispered, "I got it again." Ken’s then existing smile spread even wider, from ear to ear, as he congratulated the small boy. Then Ken pulled down a large Sponge Bob Square Pants alarm clock off one of his shelves and handed it to the boy and said, “here you go, keep up the good work!” The boys little blue eyes lit up with excitement as he thanked Ken and ran out of the store in delight.

Leaving my site visit today, I felt an extremely warm feeling about Ken and his little humble general store. Even more so, my visit to Ken’s pharmacy gave me a pretty good sense of the dynamics of the entire Versailles community in general. What looks like a small, poor and abandoned community is actually one blessed with something extremely special. It possesses a group-oriented culture that emphasizes community needs over individual rights and interests, where each individual in the community was duty-bound to help everyone in their community make Versailles not only a community, but home.

Expunging - Class Action Style!

I've been working at Safe Streets / Strong Communities, located in the 7th Ward neighborhood of New Orleans for two days now.  Day 1 consisted mostly of orientation and data entry for over 500 different clients that had previously participated in an expungement workshop held at the organization headquarters.  Apparently, Safe Streets was staffed by local attorneys and volunteers for an entire day, who met with a long line of people trying to get past-charges expunged from their records so that they could have access to owning/renting property and better employment opportunities. During orientation, one of the directors at Safe Streets told us how a prior conviction, even if the sentence was minimal, when still on one's record could serve more like a life sentence when it continually works to bar the person from basic necessities in life, like work or a place to live.  The work that safe streets does for the community is incredible. Just in being here for the short amount of time that I have,  I have heard so many people being passionate about eradicating the injustices constantly geared toward, particularly, African Americans in New Orleans.  This became particularly evident when I was sorting through these files, and the majority of the expungement clients fell into this racial category.  I'm looking forward to doing more work with the expungements during the week and attending the Safe Streets community meeting next week.  The work that this organization is doing is so inspiring, and I feel very fortunate for being placed to work with this organization.  As the rest of this trip progresses, I am hoping to become better acquainted with the other programs that they have developed to help the surrounding community.

Stories of Community

Katie, Lyna and I have been placed at the Worker’s Center for Racial Justice. When we got into work today, we first met Jacinta and Dennis who run the Congress of Day Labors Program at the Center. They oriented us to the Center and their different projects. Jacinta let us know about the different issues going on with day laborers and the constant police threats and harrassment that they face while they are on the street corners looking for work. Police have been known to slash tires, arrest day laborers arbitrarily, and generally intimidate the workers.

We were given two different projects to tackle. One was to look at the different sanctuary city or non-cooperation policies enacted by different cities around the U.S. that limit local law enforcement’s ability to cooperate with ICE. This research will help give the mayor and police chief of New Orleans a better idea of what the country at large is doing and how New Orleans can adopt similar policies. Many of the ordinances sound great but have huge loopholes that allow local law enforcement to communicate someone’s undocumented status if that person is under arrest, even if they only allegedly committed a crime. It is so infuriating to read the backlash to these non-cooperation policies from conservative anti-immigrant people.

We started working on the second project in the afternoon. In the past two weeks, 8 anti-immigrant bills were proposed in the House, and 4 had passed through the house. We found out that 2 of them were going to be heard in Senate committees tomorrow. It is not surprising that they did not let anyone know about this until the day before, so everyone was rushing around like mad trying to find people to go up and testify in front of the committee.

The 2 that are going to the floor tomorrow are HB25 which would allow police officers to request immigration status upon arrest and HB887 which would deny undocumented immigrants the right to file medical malpractice claims. We mobilized right away and began calling the Senators and wrote emails to them as well.

It was so amazing to be working again and to be around full-time organizers. I also felt like I was putting some of what I have learned over the past year into use, which made me relieved that law school wasn’t all for naught.

In the evening a few of us went for dinner and got to hang out with and talk to a few people who have been living in New Orleans for quite a while and some who were born here. The stories we heard from them were incredible, stories of community, loss, hope, fear and revival. Stories untold. Almost the whole city had to throw out their refrigerators because they were moldy, or had maggots all over them. Yet, refrigerator manufacturers only make so many refrigerators a year so people were without refrigerators for quite a while. At the same time, in many neighborhoods there were no supermarkets open. People would have to carpool way out to the grocery stores (since most of their cars were destroyed) and then could buy very few groceries because they only had small coolers in their houses. Ice was really hard to get too, so sometimes they couldn’t even store perishable food.

They told stories of the Red Cross driving through neighborhoods shouting “hot meals” on the bullhorn. They were also given “meals ready to eat” (MREs), that are generally used for the military. They also distributed “personal care packages” to people without running water. Inside each is a stack of wipes, one for each part of your body, specifically designed to clean that part of the body. To me, all of this just sounded like a lack of effort from the government to provide people with a decent way of life while they waited for certain utilities and businesses to be restored. It speaks to the dehumanization that I had read and heard about, but had never really known the full extent to which the people of New Orleans were neglected.

Another untold story is that initially a lot of the folks who returned were queer folks, for various reasons, one being that many did not have children and so did not have to worry about submitting their children’s health and safety to the instability of New Orleans at the time. The story of this community in particular and how they cared, cooked for, and supported each other, is a beautiful one, that allows me to really see the strength and passion of the spirit of so many people who came together to help each other through the worst of times.

Welcome to New Orleans!

Coming to New Orleans, I don't think that anyone in the group really knew what to expect.  We all had chosen to make the trip for reasons, personal to ourselves, but there definitely were heightened expectations of New Orleans, now almost 3 years post-Katrina.  We visited the 9th Ward today, which in 2005 suffered catastrophic flooding because of Hurricane Katrina.  It was such an odd feeling to walk among an area which had once been fully inhabited and alive.  Also, to know that where we were walking had been flooded by water and the place of so much grief.  Most of the houses have been torn down by now, except for a few that still need to be demolished.  The grass is overgrown in most places, and the only remnants of the previous neighborhood lay in the concrete porch steps that occupy most of the empty lots, or the occasional rusty fence, or fork in the road.  

I think that this visit was really significant for many of us going on this trip, it really made clear the impact of the disaster, as well as (speaking for myself) our purpose for being here.  Two weeks doesn't seem like enough time to make a difference, but I think that the sincerity of our group really shines through.  Especially after we visited all of the different organizations that we will be working with.  I feel like everyone got really pumped up after that and is ready to start off the week.  So here's to good work, good people, and a great cause, all in the name of justice and equality!